【DIY#24】📰Newspaper Weaving Tutorial・💮Basket with Openwork Top・Плетение из Газет・Мастер Класс с Ниной

【DIY#24】📰Newspaper Weaving Tutorial・💮Basket with Openwork Top・Плетение из Газет・Мастер Класс с Ниной


Weaving basket with top’s openwork bending from newspaper.
Tutorial. Materials and equipment used are listed in the description. Hello guys! I’m Nina and this is another tutorial of basket weaving from newspaper. I found about that great openwork top’s bending from Lilia Ulanova’s weaving tutorial. So I want to do the same one using newspaper tubes. It will be an experiment. Thanks to Lilia Ulanova for the idea. Now I’ll say some words about the materials used to roll and stain the tubes. I used newsprint stripes to make the tubes. 7 cm wide for weaving tubes and 10 cm wide for the base tubes. That’s how it look like, it’s a bit firmer. I rolled it on a thin 1.2 knitting needle. The tubes become that light straw colored after painting. I used water based maple color stain. I made a 1:10 ratio solution with water to make it light straw colored. And then I varnished it using 1:2 varnish with water solution to make tubes being elastic. The base tubes have to be fully dried. But weaving tubes are wrapped in a film with the edges protruding outside, to prevent them from drying. 6 base tubes are also wrapped in a film, because we will start to weave with the flower pattern. So they have to be moist. I’ll insert a fishing line into the tubes that’ll be used to weave the openwork top. It have to be inserted before varnishing and painting. Also it’s thickness has to be less or the same as the knitting needle’s. I’ve got 1.2 mm knitting needle and 1 mm fishing line. Or I can use 1.2 ones. I’ve got that fishing line. It’s possible to use any type of it. It’s easy to insert it into a tube, like that. Remain 5 mm edges protruding from each side. So, I prepared that bundle of tubes for the openwork top. The fishing line is needed to prevent creases. Because it is framing tubes from the inside. So, the weaving will look more smooth and neat that way. There are more detailed tutorials of how to make tubes on my channel. Links are in the description. To determine the quantity of weaving tubes and tubes with fishing line, there’s need to measure the bowl beforehand. Those calculations could be approximate, especially for the weaving tubes, because it’s hard to determine it’s quantity accurately. i will write how many I used after finishing the basket, in the video description. There are the measurements of my bowl, they are not the same, because it’s expanding from bottom to the top. The openwork bending pattern will start from the middle. So the measurements that I need are bottom circumference – 38 cm, circumference in the middle – 60 cm. The distance between the tubes near the bottom will be approximately 2 cm. They’ll be paired, like this. It the middle of the bowl the distance will become approximately 3 cm. The openwork pattern will be made of groups of 3 tubes. These base tubes will be replaced by tubes with fishing line. So the distance between them have to be 3 cm. Or even more. Therefore I’ll calculate their quantity according to these numbers. I’ll start to weave from the flower pattern in the center. There are 6 pairs of base tubes edges. 12 base tubes in general, but I’ll count in pairs. Because they’ll be woven in pairs. There will be 18 pairs in the end. I’ll add 2 pairs into each corner, that’ll be 18 in general. That’s 36 base tubes. 36 + 6 for the beginning of the flower. I consider them separately. 42 base tubes in general. Let’s count again. 38 cm is the bottom circumference. 60 cm is the middle circumference. Now we know that there’ll be 18 pairs of base tubes. So, let’s count. 38 divided by 18. And got 2.1 cm distance between the tubes near the bottom. Now in the middle. 60 cm divided by 18 pairs. And got 3.3 cm distance between the tubes in the middle. That is OK for us. There will be 54 tubes with fishing line. 18 groups of 3 tubes, so there are 54 in general. Everything is determined, so we can start to weave the basket. We will start with that flower pattern that I learned from Nina Golenischeva. I want to thank her. It’s clearly shown how to do it. Start from 3 tubes and add another 3 then. Tighten them in the end and get the flower. So, let’s try. I also varnished base tubes using 1:2 varnish with water solution. Then they were fully dried. The varnish is needed to hide seams and make the tubes being smooth and elastic. Now we’ll take 6 base tubes to make the flower pattern. It’s easy to bend them now. All 6 tubes will be bent in half in the middle. Varnishing will prevent them from cracking. Flatten the tubes a bit. Begin to combine them. Bend the 1st tube in half. Place the 2nd tube around it and press immediately. Keep them lying on each other like that. Adjust the 2nd tube. Place the 3rd tube around the 2nd one and inside the 1st one. Form a triangle. Press it on the corners. The 1st triangle is finished. Let’s form the 2nd triangle inside the 1st one. Bend the next tube around that one. And insert it inside this one. Remain some space here to insert the last tube in the end. Rotate it. Take the next tube. Bend the next tube around the two on the right side of triangle and insert it inside the left side. The 2nd triangle is starting to form. Rotate it like that. It only remain to insert the last tube there. Bend it around the 1st and the 2nd tubes and insert into the 3rd and the 4th. Around the 1st and the 2nd. And inside the 3rd and the 4th. Try to do it accurate on that step. Press it immediately and make sure that 2 triangles are formed. Check the shape afterwards. Each tube has to be bent around two tubes on the right and inserted in the bending of two tubes on the left then. All the tubes are on their places, so start to tighten them. Place them on an equal distances right before finishing. And then, tighten them down. There have to be no hole in the center. It will be quite hard in the end. So, I finished. Press it to make it being more flat. Do the same also from the opposite side. The ”flower” appeared to be neat and will be a good beginning of the bottom. Let’s start to weave the basket. I prepared the tubes. And also Henkel’s Super PVA waterproof glue. It’s durable and very convenient to be used for connecting paper tubes. I highly recommend it. I cut all the tubes edges at the right angle. I made it to make the edges being smooth, because they will not look good in the weaving otherwise. And then expand the hole to make it easier to insert the next tube inside it. Start to weave from the one tube, I’ll show how to elongate it later. Bend it in a half. Press it there. Start from any pair of base tubes. Mark the tube with a rubber band to know how many rows were finished. Bend it around like that. Start to weave by the so called straight rope method. Place the lower tube on the next pair of base tubes. And the upper tube under it. So it will lie on the previous, lower one. Weave tightly and press the weaving to the center. Now repeat. The lower tube going up, and then upper tube lies down on it and going down. Tighten it immediately. Continue on weaving that way. Adjust the weaving immediately. The tube is finished when it’s obvious that we can’t make the next bending. The tubes connection point will be here because the edge is rough and will be cut down. So we have to place the connection point on the crossing, there. Now press the edge and narrow it down using your fingernails, enough to be able to insert it to the next tube. Apply a drop of glue. Insert it into the next tube spinning it a bit. Press it a bit to make it gluing properly. Keep on. Right there. Here’s the connection point. It will be hidden under the tube and being unseen from both sides. Press the start tube to the center as much as possible. To prevent it’s standing out. Keep on weaving and elongating that way. I’ve finished 2 rows. Weave very tight to prevent gaps in the middle. Tighten every single row. Also try to keep an equal distance between the base tubes. After 5 rows, we will insert 2 additional base tubes on the sides of each pair. Expand gaps by a little scissors. Cut the edge at a 3 mm distance. Because it’s too soft here. Narrow down the edge. Apply the glue and insert it into the gap near the base tube. Insert as deep as possible. Do the same from the left side. Press it from top afterwards Insert the other tubes the same way. All the tubes are inserted and now we are weaving groups of 4 tubes. Weave 3 or 4 rows like that. I’ve finished 3 rows. Or 8 rows total. And now I’ll add another 2 base tubes to each group. There is enough space for that. Expand the gaps. It will be 36 base tubes afterwards. We’ve got 12 or 6 pairs at the beginning. Then we added another 12, and now another 12, so it’s 36 in total. We’ll start to separate them after weaving the next row. This is how the base tubes and the bottom look like. When there are 6 base tubes, the weaving tubes length is becoming too long. Keep them parallel to make them being smooth. Adjust them right away and keep the crossing being in the middle. Also press it, because it could protrude there. And do not look like a circle. This is how it looks from the opposite side. It’s almost similar to the front side. All the tubes connection points are hidden in these crossings. The bottom side looks very good. Now weave another row to fixate the added tubes. Put the weaving on the base bowl. It’s seen that it remained to weave 4 rows before bending them to make sidewalls. We’ve reached the marked base tube. And now we’ll start to divide the groups into pairs. And continue on weaving. Side pairs have to be cross-crossed like that. And distance between them have to be as short as possible. It’s impossible to equalize the distance between pairs yet, so we’ll do it after 2 or 3 rows. I’ve finished that row. Don’t forget to press and smoothen the weaving. Try to make that row as smooth as possible. And after 3 rows, I’ll start to equalize the distance between the pairs. So it will look much smoother afterwards. Keep on weaving till the bottom’s edge. I’ve finished the 4th row. Move the rubber band on the pair on the left. Because the 5th row will start here, because of the additional tubes. Let’s check if the bottom’s shape is similar to the bowl’s bottom. Yes, it is. That’s the nice rounded bottom we’ve got. The flower pattern in the center looks good. Then weaving around groups of 6 base tubes and then around pairs. The next step is to bend the tubes like that. At 45° at first. The 1st row will be woven without a bowl, but the next – with. Adjust and smoothen the weaving now. Also press it to the center. I’ve finished the 1st row after bending the tubes. Now I’ll press it again to give it the shape of the bowl. Do the same with the pairs of base tubes. I’ll even fixate the tubes near the bowl’s top for some time for it. So, the weaving is dried a little while later. The base tubes are bent in shape. I also cut the edges, because I don’t need them to be so long. I will also elongate these tubes, because they are too short. I’ll cut them down near the bottom and insert the new ones. I’ll start to weave after turning the bowl over. Also the weaving method will be changed to the triple straight rope. It looks more lush. So, now I’ll finish the weaving. I’ll hide the weaving tubes. The 1st is under the marked base tube, the 2nd is on it. I will cut them down and insert their edges into the weaving. And then start to weave from the left to the right from that side. Cut down the short base tubes near the bottom. Expand the gaps from the inside. Flatten the old tubes as much as possible. The edges of new tubes are also have to be flatten. Apply the glue and insert 2 tubes. Press it and let the glue dry for some time. Do the same with the other short pairs. I’ve elongated all the base tubes. Now we’ll glue 3 tubes behind 3 pairs. I’ll move the designated tube 3 pairs to the left, because we finished the weaving. However, it’s not necessary where to start. Glue the tubes behind. Put the base bowl. And now we’ll start to weave using the triple straight rope. By the way, it will cover the cut base tubes. It’s more voluminous than the previous one. Put the left tube on the next 2 ones. And insert it behind the 3rd one. Make it a bit loose at the beginning. Keep on that way. Bend the left one on next 2 and behind the 3rd one. Try to keep an equal distance between the pairs of base tubes. When the tube is finished, cut it at a 7 mm distance. Keep in mind that the connection point have to be hidden under the next tubes. Reach the marked tube. Pull out the base bowl, because we will insert and glue the tubes inside. Adjust them to the texture. And then, glue them to the texture inside. I’ve finished that row. So, that tubes that were cut are hidden now. The triple straight rope is often used as an intermediate option between different patterns. Here is the straight rope. Now we’ll use the calico weaving. And the triple straight rope is some sort of a dividing line between them. I also changed the tubes from there we’ll start. Because we glued the tubes to finish the row. When I’ll glue the tubes for the calico weaving, I’ll insert them into the straight rope that way. We’ve got an even quantity of pairs of base tubes. Therefore, we’ll glue another 2 tubes before the marked pair. And will weave in a pursuit. We’ll weave the 1st row, put the tubes aside, and weave the 2nd row ”in a pursuit”. And we’ll got the nice alternating pattern that way. It’s necessary to make the tubes look good from the inside. Because the center of the basket will be pretty visible. Insert both of them and fit them properly. Put the base bowl and start to weave tightly. Also keep the base tubes being parallel to each other. Put aside the left pair and start to weave using the right one as before. That method is quite simple. Bend it in front of the marked tube and then, behind the next one. Press it to the previous row. Keep on weaving that way. In front of the next 1st one and behind the 2nd one. Fit the tubes to the texture right away. To prevent the tubes that we set aside from drying, insert then into a drinking straws. When the tubes are coming to an end, they have to be elongated and the connection point must be here on the left. Because it will be hidden under the next tubes. It will look like that. Therefore if the connection point will be here it would be invisible. Reach the end of the row, set these tubes aside and start the next row by the other pair. Use the same method. Bend it in front of the next 1st pair of base tubes and behind the 2nd one. So this row is on top of the previous one. This alternating leads to the pretty pattern. Don’t press the tubes to each other too hard, just tight enough to hide the gaps. The pattern will look good, because the base tubes will be visible that way. Keep on weaving like that. Reach the end of the 2nd row and the pair of tubes that we set aside. Bend the 1st row behind the marked pair of base tubes. And do the same with the 2nd row. Both rows have to always reach the marked pair. Now start the next cycle. Start to weave from the right pair and set aside the left one. It’s needed, to count the quantity of rows. I hope that you understood how to weave using calico weaving. So, do the next rows similar to previous ones. Finish the 1st row, then start the next one using the tubes that were set aside. Keep on weaving that way till the middle of the bowl. Start the 4th row after the 3rd one right after reaching the marked base tube. Each row has to start near it. I also want to show you the transition point. We glued 2 tubes here. Adjust it here again. The points there we sticked the tubes are unseen. I’ve finished 7 rows. It’s the 8th one. The texture has properly formed. The calico weaving looks good if using pairs of base tubes and weaving tubes. The distance between the tubes has increasing as the increasing the diameter of the bowl. When elongating the tubes you should place the connection points near the crossings of the tubes. The end of the edge that were cut has to be near a base tube. Because the connection point will be right there, when we’ll insert the next tube. It’s right near the tubes crossing as you can see. I’m finishing the 9th row. I consider this height to be enough for me. That’s the height I’ve got. Because the next will be the triple straight rope row. And the openwork top will be high, so that height is enough. Finish the row near the marked base tube, where it started. Now I’ll glue it and insert it into the weaving there. The weaving has to be neat from the inside, because it will be very notable. Keep the connection points being hidden. The calico weaving with the pattern of the bottom looks great. Before starting the openwork pattern I have to replace all the base tubes with the tubes with fishing line inside. Now I’ll cut down the base tubes and insert 3 new ones instead of each pair. Cut down the base tubes near the top of the basket. I’ll apply the glue and insert the tubes from the inside. Expand the gaps here and there. From the backside of base tubes. Adjust them properly, to make them being close to each other. Insert them deeper because three tubes with fishing line are quite heavy. Changing of the number of tubes are almost unseen in this weaving pattern. Use clothespins to fixate them properly and let the glue dry for some time. Use a plastic bag to prevent them from fully drying. Left it like that till the beginning of the weaving. Do the same with the other base tubes. All the tubes were replaced. And now we’ll weave the triple straight rope as we’ve done near the bottom. I’ve finished the row. And decided to weave another 1 or 2 rows using this method. I will insert the tubes with the fishing line in the weaving afterwards, so it would be better if there will be more space for it. So, move ahead. Then starting the next row, start to weave from the right tube, not from the left one. Bend the right tube in front of 2 groups of base tubes and then behind the 3rd one. And the same with the next tube, in front of 2 and behind the 3rd one. And this tube is going here. This is how we changed rows, and now we’ll weave another 1 or 2 rows. I’ve finished the 2nd row and decided to weave the 3rd row using that method. I also marked the 1st 3 base tubes to know where the rows ends. Change rows like on the previous rows, starting from the right tube. Adjust the weaving to the texture. And press the weaving. I’ve finished the 3rd row. Keep in mind that it’s better to weave with the bowl inside to make the weaving better keep the shape. I did not use the bowl because I was weaving quite tight. So it has the right shape. Now we have to insert the tubes. We’ll not glue them from the inside, because we’ll also insert base tubes afterwards. Therefore now we just insert them. Insert inside. Press to hide gaps. And the next step is to insert them to the weaving, then pull them outside and then cut their edges. Let’s look at the texture from the inside. The pattern has to match with the texture. We are inserting pairs of tubes there. Pull the tube. Now insert the 2nd tube. Also matching with the texture. And the last one. The finishing of the row looks good from the inside. From the outside, the edges have to be cut and glued to the texture. We’ll do it after making the top. Now we could start to make the top’s openwork pattern. The tubes are dried a bit, when I was weaving previous rows. I applied potable hot water to make them moist again. And then wrapped them in a film for half an hour. So they became wet again. I took off plastic bags from 5 groups of tubes. But the others are still in the film to prevent them from drying. We’ll weave from the left to the right. Bend the group of tubes in front of the next 2 ones and behind the 3rd one. Insert it in the gap between the 3rd and the 4th tubes. Expand the gap. Start to insert from the left tube. Then the middle one. And the right one. Adjust it right away. The tubes will have different heights. Keep on weaving that way. Bend it in front of the next 2 groups and behind the 3rd one. Then insert it into the gap. You can cut their edges at an acute angle for the easier inserting. Adjust it right away. However, you can fit their height afterwards if you want. This is how it looks like. I will adjust them later. And from the inside Look how the openwork pattern starting to appear. It’s necessary to make the right basket’s shape immediately, because the tubes are drying fast. But the height could be equalized afterwards. So, we are reaching the finish. It only remained to insert 4 groups of base tubes. Now let’s insert the tubes that we set aside after finishing the triple straight rope rows. Insert it there, near the openwork tubes. They will be cut with them afterwards. Do the same with the 2nd one. And the 3rd one will go to these 3 base tubes. They are least visible here. And now we will insert the last base tubes. 3 groups remained. Take left group, bend in front of the next 2 ones and behind that one. Now the next one. It will be bent in front of this and that ones and behind this one. Bend each tube carefully. There, there and insert it behind this one. And do the same with the other tubes. Be careful with the last one. Bend it in front of the next 2 ones, then behind the 3rd one and insert it in the last gap. The last one is inserted. Now we have to joint everything properly. You can choose the height on your own. You can left all of them together or lower the lower tubes. Do as you like. The appearance of the basket almost fully depends on the neatness of the openwork top . You can equalize the height approximately or using a ruler. The basket also has to have a rounded shape. It shrunk a bit during the weaving. After equalizing the height I’ll cut the protruding edges and glue them. So, I equalized the top’s height and now it looks neat and smooth. It remained to cut down these edges. I’ll use a nippers. They should be cut as close as possible to the weaving. It’s not that easy because of the fishing line, so I’ll use both scissors and nippers. It’s necessary to apply the glue after cutting the edges, to fixate the tubes. Let the glue dry for some time afterwards. I cut all the edges. This is how it look like. Top’s bending looks perfect. The glue has dried a bit. This is how the cut edges looks like. Now I’m going to stain the remained edges to hide them by the stain solution that we’ve used to stain the tubes before. The basket has to be primed to become durable. We’ll use 1:1 varnish with water solution as a primer. We varnished the tubes before, so now, after 24 hours after the weaving it became quite durable already. And it will become even more durable after priming. It will be possible to wash it and wipe by a wet wipe. It’s necessary to adjust the shape right after priming. Because it will become solid after drying of primer. Finish the priming and let it dry for 12 or even 24 hours. This is how the basket looks like after 10 minutes from priming. I also used a hair dryer and spread the primer using the brush with long stiff bristles. I highly recommend to do it to prevent stains and blots, that will not look good. That stiff brush could remove stains even from the deep gaps. Then the basket is still moist, it’s necessary to adjust the it’s shape properly. You can put the base bowl inside. However it does not fit, so I put caps on the bottom. So, I put the bowl and let let basket dry for some time with it inside. The basket;s top will be perfectly rounded that way. The primer has fully dried and the basket became solid. The last step is to varnish it. But there is no need to too much varnish, just one layer is enough. It’s needed to make the basket look better. It’s the final layer. Just as a decoration. Apply the varnish and spread it properly. So, I varnished it properly, there are no stains remained. The basket will look much better that way. I also want to say, that it would be better to use a matte tone varnish for the baskets made of tubes that look like natural vine. Because it will look better without glistening. It’s even better to dilute the varnish with water. Let the basket dry for 24 hours. You can use it afterwards. My basket is finished. It appeared to be that pretty, charming and gentle looking. The bottom is also very beautiful. The flower pattern is decorating it well. The calico weaving and the top’s openwork pattern. Everything looks good and decorating the top of the basket. I’m proud of it. I hope that your basket is also appeared to be that lovely, charming and wonderful. I want to thank those who were weaving together with me. I also want to thank you for your comments. For your good words about my baskets and tutorials. I wish your baskets to be lovely, smooth and interesting. To make you and your loved ones happy. If you enjoyed my tutorial, please subscribe, press the like button and share it. I wish you my best wishes!

79 thoughts on “【DIY#24】📰Newspaper Weaving Tutorial・💮Basket with Openwork Top・Плетение из Газет・Мастер Класс с Ниной

  1. Наконец то вы снова с нами !!! Очень нравятся ваши мастер классы .

  2. Таких подробных МК нет ни у кого.Спасибо Вам огромное!!!

  3. Мне тоже очень нравятся ваши МК. Жду всегда. Спасибо большое за шикарный и понятный МК.

  4. Более подробного мк я не видела!!!все понятно объясняете!вы супер! спасибо огромное!!!

  5. Какая вы молодец, так всегда внятно и доходчиво все объясняете, спасибо вам за ваши мк, очень жду всегда новые ваши работы

  6. на спицу 1.2 полоска нужна не 7см а 10см… иначе трубочка будет полая… потому как полоска узковата.. проверено…

  7. Ниночка, какая ,Вы, молодец!!! Более подробных и понятных м/ к нет во всем ютубе!!! Хотелось бы почаще видеть Ваши уроки!!!

  8. Повторюсь. Вы самый аккуратный мастер на ютубе. Прекрасный МК. Прекрасная корзинка. Четкое и понятное описание работы.

  9. Нарезка по времени:
    1:04 Обзор материалов из которых изготовлены трубочки
    4:17 Измеряем форму-основу. Расчёт количества стоечек и трубочек для загибки
    8:19 Изготовление цветочка – серединки донышка
    15:44 Плетение круглого донышка
    18:15 Наращиваем трубочку в плетении верёвочка
    21:39 Добавляем стоечки-основы
    30:15 Поднимаем стоечки: начало плетения стенок корзинки
    32:58 Наращиваем короткие стоечки
    34:29 Верёвочка из 3-х трубочек (1 ряд)
    37:58 Ситцевой плетение вдогонку 2-мя трубочками
    40:42 Наращиваем трубочки в ситцевом плетении
    48:09 Меняем стоечки-основы на трубочки для загибки с леской
    50:10 Верёвочка из 3-х трубочек (3 ряда с переходами)
    55:37 Плетение Ажурной загибки
    1:06:42 Грунтуем корзинку для прочности (лак+вода 1:1)
    1:10:11 Финишное покрытие акриловым лаком

  10. Чётко, аккуратно,красиво.Попробую сотворить такую.Спасибо за мк.

  11. Очень красиво, аккуратно и доступно объясняете. Успехов Вам. Очень хочу научится плести такие чудесные корзинки. Но столько терпения аккуратности мне не дано.

  12. Нина здравствуйте.Я рада, что вы опять со своим понятным мастер классом,обязательно буду пробовать.Спасибо Вам за ваши мк.Ждем с новым мк.Удачи Вам во всех делах и во всем.

  13. Спасибо Вам большое. Плела вместе с Вами, но у меня пока ещё не получается так же красиво. Зато цветочек получился, ура! Буду стремиться до Вашего уровня.

  14. Нина,ваши мк самые лучшие.всегда жду с нетерпением.все хорошо видно отличное освещение просто профе ссионал.ничего лишнего.спасибо вам большое.а плетение это сказка,я помню все ваши работы, ведь начала я плести только благодаря вам

  15. это произведение искусства! все так аккуратненько! спасибо за мк!удачи вам во всех начинаниях! привет ВАЛЮШИ! скучаю без ваших видео!

  16. Рада встрече! Корзиночка получилась отличная. Буду рада новым МК.

  17. Корзинка – мечта поэта, а мастер-класс – просто класс!!! Спасибо, ждем новых показов, успехов Вам!

  18. Здравствуйте, с удовольствием посмотрела, спасибо большое 👍

  19. Ниночка,здравствуйте !!!Как хочется Валиных видео !!Как она и где !??

  20. Спасибо большое за подробный мастер класс!!! Вы большая молодец, что делитесь с нами своим мастерством!!!

  21. Нина, очень красивая корзинка,очень подробное объяснение.Спасибо!С вами хочется творить!

  22. У нас с Вами даже посуда для форм одинаковая, и для подноса, и для вазочки. Супер работа! Спасибо за МК!

  23. Нина ,я ваша землячка ( забайкалочка ) !!!И не поверите я живу в Мухавце возле почты !!А родители ваши купили дом у Охримуков ,они наши родственники !!!А Валя что ушла с ютуба !?

  24. Нина, нет слов, чтобы выразить восхищение и дать достойную оценку Вашей работе. Спасибо огромное за Ваши МК, все очень понятно и наглядно. Желаю Вам дальнейших творческих успехов и вдохновения, а мы ждем очередных МК. Всего Вам доброго.

  25. Ниночка,спасибо что ответила !!!А племянник женился ,и как отец ваш !?Знаю что он у Лены в городе !

  26. Чтобы трубочки загибки не высыхали можно одевать на них коктейльные трубочки

  27. И при плетении верёвочек просто приподымать коктейльные трубочки на нужное растояние.

  28. Просто шедевр!Очень аккуратно,красиво и очень понятно!Спасибо!И может вам пригодится эта информация:в ИКЕА продаются коктейльные трубочки диаметром 8 мм,100 шт цена 79 руб,для таких загибок по моему оч.удобно.

  29. Огромное спасибо. Я не давно увлеклась плетением, около 2 месяцев, но ваши ролики это просто чудо. Всё на столько просто и понятно, что первую сплетённую мной корзинку мне не стыдно было подарить подруге, а цветок сакуры получился с первог раза, после 10 стал получатья автоматически. Я в восторге. Спасибо.

  30. У вас хорошо получается объяснять, покажите пожалуйста ажурную ручку или корзинку с ажурной ручкой к 8 марта

  31. Ну ооооочень подробный МК, действительно от А до Я, для новичков это просто кладезь да и не только для новичков ) Шикарный МК!!!!!

  32. Красивое, ровное плетение спасибо вам за мк, очень все понятно, хочу спросить, форма не пойму какого размера и еще сейчас многие обрабатывают трубочки дюфой, а вам не нравится или вы не пробовали? Спасибо

  33. Ниночка! У меня все получилось! Корзиночки вышли одна другой краше! А применение коктейльных трубочек – это же какая находка! Спасибо за прекрасный МК! Одну из них плела по три стоечки и соединение с трубочками загибки прятала в ситцевом плетении. Тоже смотрится красиво. При случае, приглашаю на свою страничку в ОК или Facebook , альбом "Газетное плетение". В нем собраны все мои вытворялочки. Думала, поиграюсь. Ан, нет! Таки затянуло! Творческих Вам успехов!!! До встречи в новых МК!

  34. Я рычала и кричала, от бессилия плакала. Не слыхала замечаний Ниночки Михайловой. А теперь для Оли с Вовой начинать работу снова.

  35. Прелесть, спасибо за МК Нина, сложная для меня работа, но надо пробовать

  36. Не называйте свое изделие корзиной. Это папьемаше . Дизлайк

  37. Более понятного цветка сакуры нет ни у кого. Спасибо.

  38. Спасибо за мк,прям разжевали и в рот положили😊,вот если бы вы так же показали,загибку коса,как у Лены Гайнановой,вообще было бы здорово.

  39. А каким клеем вы склеиваите трубочки во время плетения когда добавляете их.

  40. Нина, Ваша работа- совершенство! Спасибо за возможность научиться делать такую красоту!

  41. Thank you darling girl. Thank you for taking the time to share your beautiful art. I so want to do this.🥰🤗Sherie Rodrigues

  42. Вы работвли очень хорошо и
    Обьяснили это .
    В АЛБАНИИ сообщество РОМ ( ЦИГАН ) из материала ивы делает красивые вещи .
    УДАЧИ !
    КОРЧА , АЛБАНИЯ

  43. Нина, спасибо большое за Ваши МК , все понятно, ясно и очень хорошо видно! Главное ничего лишнего, очень приятная речь.

  44. Gracias por tu trabajo tan bello hace tiempo buscaba este tipo de trabajo hoy lo hice estoy aprendiendo gracias a ti felicidades

  45. Спасибо огромное за шикарный МК, все подробно, понятно, отдельное спасибо за приятную музыку, ненавязчивую, умиротворяющую.,👏👏👏🌹

  46. Подскажите пожалуйста, а рабочие трубочки дна нельзя ими дальше плести добавив 1 трубочку и плести узор из 3 трубочек веревочку?

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