【DIY#32】📰Newspaper Weaving Tutorial・🍮Classical Style Tray・Плетение из Газет・Мастер Класс с Ниной

【DIY#32】📰Newspaper Weaving Tutorial・🍮Classical Style Tray・Плетение из Газет・Мастер Класс с Ниной

Weaving from newspaper. Tutorial.
The classical style tray. Hello guys! My name is Nina and I would like to welcome you in my creative studio. I want to thank you for weaving together with me, for sharing your works and of course for lots of pleasant comments about my works and tutorials. Today we’ll weave the classical style tray. I prepared weaving tubes, tray to be used as a shape and wallpaper covered cardboard bottom. Both sides have a pretty pattern. It’s glittering and will look good on the bottom. It’s not finished, I’ll also stick tubes between its sides. It has a shape of outline of the tray’s bottom. Now I’ll tell how I made the tubes. I rolled them from 10 cm width stripes. I used a blank newsprint but you can use just a newspaper with blank edges. It’s needed to make tubes tone being equal. I rolled the tubes on a 1.2 mm knitting needle. Such a thin one. The tube will become very dense if it’s thin. They will not crumple during the weaving. I colored them by 1:20 maple tone stain with water solution. And by the 1:20 varnish with water solution to make them flexible. And to make them looking properly in the weaving. I’ve got tutorials how to make them smooth and flexible and how to color them. There are links in the description. There are also the tutorial how to make a rounded bottom, how to cover them by a wallpaper and how to stick the tubes. Now we’ll only determine how many tubes we need. I wrapped the tray in the film beforehand. And made a handle to pull it out from the weaving. Base tubes are usually placed at a 1.5-2 cm distance. We’ll use 2 cm. Because it have to be wider for the braid pattern. Now we’ll measure the circumference. Then divide it by 2 and determine the quantity of base tubes. It is 90 cm. 90 divided by 2 (Distance between the tubes) is 45 base tubes. But I’ll use 44 instead, it’s not that necessary. Because the bottom will be divided into 4 parts. I recommend you to do the same. If I use 44, there will be 11 tubes in each part. I’ll place them at an equal distance. And then glue all of them. I’ll use polymer glue. It’s sticking surfaces fast Then I’ll stick the other side of the bottom afterwards. And the bottom will be completed. The outline in finished. There is one necessary detail. Usually we use dry base tubes to keep the shape of the weaving. But now I’ll use wet ones. Because they’ll be bent up afterwards and woven one behind another. So, I need them to be flexible. I’ll apply drinking straws to prevent them from drying. They can be bought in IKEA or a hardware store. I’ll insert it before weaving. My tubes will not dry and stay wet that way. Glue has dried 10 minutes later. Now we can remove straws and bend up the base tubes. Glue has dried. We can let it dry 30 minutes or an hour. But they have to be bent up when they are still wet. We’ll bend a right tube behind a left one. And bend it up after. It could be done from the frontside or backside. I’ll choose the frontside. But show how to do it from backside afterwards. Reserve space for the last tube. And begin like that. Do it tightly. To make the gap between cardboards hidden behind base tubes. Because it doesn’t look good. And should be hidden as much as possible. Bend the tube this way. Bend it around left one and then to the upside. Keep on this way. Place it properly to make the bending looking good. This is what we’ve got. But it’s not convenient for me to weave from the front side, so I’ll show how to do it from backside. Both methods could be used. Turn it over. Bend it tightly. Take the tube. Bend it behind base tube and then to the front. This is what we’ve got. It’s sort of smooth. It’s necessary for the tubes to be wet to prevent cracks. And to make this row looking pretty. So, there is no difference to what side bend the tubes. It’s also necessary to adjust them right away. And pull the bending tube to the upside right away. Reach the end of the row. Remove the reserve tube and insert the last one instead. All finished, all tubes were bent up. Now adjust the weaving again. Especially the gaps. Make the bending points being neat. Smoothen crumpled parts carefully. Then pull the tubes up. Try to erect them as vertical as possible. Also try to keep an equal distance between tubes. Because it could become various during bending. And it could be equalized then the tubes are still wet. This is how the backside looks like. It appeared to be very good. It looks very smooth. And the bottom will look good. All the tubes more or less parallel. The gap is hidden. But the glue has not fully dried yet. The bottom could become not smooth. It should be pressed by the tray on this step and let it dry for several hours. And then continue on weaving. Several hours passed Base tubes have dried. It will be convenient to weave around them now. They’ll not fall down. And will hold the sidewall durably. The bottom has dried. I also fasten the tubes in groups of 4 to prevent them from falling. And now they are standing vertically. Now we are beginning to weave the sidewall. The tubes are ready for the weaving. They should not be too wet. However have to be flexible enough to prevent cracks in the weaving. The edge that are not glued will be made flat. To make it not getting rough. And to make to make connection points of tubes looking good. Remain the tubes being wrapped in a film. To prevent them from drying. We’ll weave by the so called Straight rope weaving. Note that we bent up a right tube behind a left one. But we’ll weave from the left to the right. It’s more convenient if you a right-handed. The reason why we bent them up to the left but will weave to the right is because they formed a texture already. If we’ll weave to the right, the weaving will replicate the texture. It will look good from below. Especially because the gap between the cardboards is not fully hidden yet. So we have to cover it as much as possible. The tubes could be glued behind the tubes. They could also be inserted in front of tubes. And then both will be bent to the front. But I’ll use the other way. I think that the connection of rows will look better that way. So, I’ll use this method. Bend it behind the base tube. Then put it on the left tube. We’ll cut it here. At that distance. Do the same with the 2nd one. Cut these tubes right away. Here the tube is protruding left for 7 mm. Press it right away. The place that were cut will be hidden by the next row. Press it right away. And begin to weave. The Straight rope is weaving that way. Put the left tube on the right one. Then bend it behind the next base tube. Press the connection points right away. Also try to keep an equal distance between base tubes. Keep on like this. Put the left tube on the right one and bend it behind the next base tube. This what we’ve got. The texture replicates the texture of the previous row. Put the tray inside and begin to weave. When tubes ended, they have to be elongated. Keep in mind that glued parts look bad in the weaving. Therefore they should be cut. And the connection points should be hidden behind the next tube. There. So, now now we’ll find where it will be. And the tube will be cut at that distance. Cut it at an acute angle. Narrow down the edge. This way. Then insert it into the next tube. Apply glue for the better sticking. Elongate the 2nd tube the same way. Reach the end of the row. It’s time to hide the remaining edges by these tubes. Bend it behind the penultimate base tube. Then bend this edge here right away. Now bend the next tube behind the last base tube. It will be glued there afterwards. Then bend it behind the 1st base tube there we started. And the 2nd edge will be hidden behind this tube. Expand the gap. And press it by the next tube. In other words this tube is pressing the 1st edge and this tube is the 2nd one. And they are both hidden. Adjust the inserted tubes. Make them a bit lower. To make them hide the connection point. And to make it unnoticeable. Press it a bit. Keep on weaving straight rope for several rows. Don’t forget to press the woven rows to each other. And to keep an equal distance between base tubes. I finished the 6th row. And this height is enough. There’ll be the top’s pattern later. And the height of the weaving will be the same as the tray’s. Such a pretty texture we’ve got. I’ve been weaving pretty tight there. So the weaving looks wonderful. I’m finishing the weaving near the base tube where we bent up the last tube at the beginning. Behind this tube. Now I’ll glue these 2 tubes between the base tubes. The connection point will be hidden by the top. The top will protrude mostly to the front, so cut the edges this way. The edge have to look to the front side. Because here it will be unseen as much as possible. So, stick the lower tube. And then the upper one on it. The tubes should be pressed tightly from both sides to make the row looks smooth. I removed the tray. The woven tray also looks good from the inside. It looks very smooth. The weaving has dried when I was weaving. The shape has formed. But you can remain the tray inside till fully drying. Because we’ll not be able to put it when we will weave the top. Because it will protrude to the inside. And it will be impossible to fit it inside. So remain the tray for several hours. And begin to weave the top after. Now we can start to weave the top. The top will have the braid style. I found out about it from Kovalenko brothers blog. They are the vine wicker weaving artists. However I’ll change it a little. They make 3 volutions from above and 2 from below. But I’ll make 3 from above and 3 from below. It will look more symmetrical this way. We’ll weave the same way but using newspaper tubes This requires pretty wet tubes. And will be woven using only base tubes. The tubes has dried, have cracks and not long enough. We need the tubes to be longer. So now we’ll replace them by new tubes. We need 44 new tubes to replace each. But we’ll not replace all of them immediately. Now I’ll cut them right near the weaving. And also will expand the gaps on the left. Then insert the tube there. On the left, because it will be hidden on the right by the next rows that way. So, cut each of them now. We will insert base tubes in small groups because they are drying fast. It’s necessary for them to be flexible. Because otherwise the braid will have cracks and will not look good. So keep your tubes being elastic. They’ll be inserted by this, glued edge. Cut it at an acute angle to remove the glued part. It’s also necessary to use polymer glue. The tubes have to be fixated properly to prevent slipping out. I inserted 10 tubes. Others will be added later. I applied drinking straws to prevent drying and to make the tubes being wet longer. Make 2 groups of 3 tubes to use as a reserve ones. They’ll be replaced by the last tubes later. Put the 1st 3 tubes after the 1st tube. Bend the tube on it. Place 2 additional tubes near it. Weave tightly to make the braid look good. Here we got 3 and 3. Now we’ll start to form the braid. It’s necessary to begin correctly because the braid itself is weaving easily. Use clothespin to fixate 2 additional tubes like that. The next step is to put the next 3 tubes on top. Then bend the 2nd tube on top of them. Then add another pair of tubes near it. These tubes could also be fixated by a clothespin. This way. It will be more convenient like that. The 1st 3 tubes will be inserted here. They’ll be bent up. We are starting to form the braid. We are starting to form the braid. Pull up these 3 tubes and bend them behind the 3 base tube and in front of the 4th one. Place on the texture right away. Be more careful on the next step. Bend the next base tube down. Like we’ve done before. Put it on 3 tubes like before. But we’ll use 2 tubes instead of 3 ahead. From now on we’ll cut down one of the 3 tubes after each base tube. Cut it right near the base tube. Then place another pair of tubes near the base tube. This will be the last pair that we add. We remove one of the tubes because the base tube will be the 3rd tube instead. Base tube is bending down and becoming the 3rd tube. Alternation of 3 tubes on top and 3 tubes below form the braid pattern. After adding the last pair we will just weave ahead. So, these 3 tubes are bending on top of these 3 ones. Bend it in front of the next base tube to the inside the tray. Form the texture of the braid right away to prevent cracks. Bend the base tube down. Cut the upper tube. You can apply glue to prevent it’s slipping out, however if you weaving tightly, it will not. Because it’s fixated tightly by the base tube. Now this pair of tubes will be bent on top. So, keep on weaving. I’ll show how to do it again. Take these 3 and place them on top of the previous ones. Put them between 2 base tubes and place properly. Pull it tight. Bend the tube down. Then cut the upper tube right away. Then bend rear tubes to the front side. Press it immediately to make it look parallel to the others. Look what the braid we’ve got. Press it when it’s still wet. Look how short are the right tubes. So, one tube is 8 base tubes distance long. When you’ll bend the tubes on this step you’ll see that this tube is too short and should be cut. From now on cut this short edges after bending down a base tube on it. Now I’ll add 10 additional base tubes here and continue to weave. Fixate it here using a clothespin. Apply drinking straws to prevent the tubes from drying. If the tube is too short it could be elongated. The connection point have to be hidden behind these base tubes. Pull it back carefully and connect additional tube from the inner side. I’m finishing the braid, it remained only 3 base tubes. This is how it look like. I keep the tubes in drinking straws and even weaving with them because the tubes are drying fast. And they stay wet that way. Bend the tube after the last base tube. You can remove drinking straws now. The braid is finished. Now I’ll show how to insert remaining tubes. These 3 tubes will be inserted instead of those 3 reserve ones. It’s finished and other 3 will be inserted instead of other reserve 3 ones. Adjust it. There are various ways to insert the tubes here. These tubes were inserted to the weaving, so they are crumpled. We could insert short edges below and cut the remainings of the lower protruding tubes. But I’ll cut them down and insert these good ones instead. It’s necessary to hide the connection points under these or those group of tubes. We’ll choose those one. This short one have also be cut. Place this pair here. They’ll be hidden at this point. Cut them here and insert under the tubes. Do the same with the other pairs. And also here, do it similarly. Expand gaps for easier insertion. It’s necessary to apply the glue. That’s all, the completion is finished. Adjust and smoothen the whole braid here and there. The top is finished. I made an effort to smoothen it. This is how it looks like now. This is how the pattern looks like from the inside. Keep in mind that it have to be tight enough to prevent gaps in the weaving. This is how it look like from the bottom. The next step is to prime it to make more durable. The primer is 1:1 acryllic varnish with water solution We’ll dry it using hair dryer after applying. It’s needed for the faster drying and to make the primer being applied equally. I’ll use this brush with tough bristles. Lay a film to prevent the bottom from staining. Remove stains by a wet wipe otherwise. Apply the primer equally. Then let dry for 12 or even 24 hours. It’ll be varnished afterwards. The primer has fully dried. Now the tray and especially it’s top became durable. It looks pretty good here. Now it’s able to be wiped, to store food and for other uses. The last step is to apply a thin layer of acrylic varnish as a decoration. You can use just varnish or a little diluted one. I poured a little water to make it look not too glossy. The water will make it more matte. That’s the density I’ve got. I apply it on the brush and cover the tray’s top by a thin layer. I also spread it properly to prevent stains. Remove stains from the gaps using a small brush afterwards. Use a hair dryer for the faster drying and better removing of stains. Paper wallpaper should also been varnished. Vinyl and interlining ones are not, because they’ve got their own covering. The varnish will ruin them and make looking bad. My classical tray is finished. It appeared to be that gorgeous and pretty. It looks great. I like how the bottom is decorated by the pattern. And of course the braid looks magnificent and adorning the top. I want to thank Kovalenko brothers for their tutorial. There is the link in the description. This is how the tray’s bottom look like. The connection of the bottom and the sidewalls appeared to be good. The backside of the braid is also looks good. I want to thank you for weaving together with me. Comment this video and share it if you enjoyed this tutorial. I would also appreciate to see the photos of your trays. I wish you all the best and a lot of beautiful wickerworks! Press the like button and subscribe to my channel :)))

32 thoughts on “【DIY#32】📰Newspaper Weaving Tutorial・🍮Classical Style Tray・Плетение из Газет・Мастер Класс с Ниной

  1. 👋👋👋👋👍👍👍👍🥰😘😍🌸☘️🌼🍀🌻🌺🌹💐💐💐💐💐💐‼️‼️‼️‼️‼️

  2. Спасибо большое за отличный мастер класс,! Всегда восхищаюсь вашими работами!

  3. Великолепие, очень нежный подносик, как все ровненько, акуратненько!

  4. Замечательный мастер-класс! Очень понравился подосик, загибка красиво смотрится😍👍👏 Уже плела по вашему МК кофейный поднос, но на такую красоту пока не могу решиться, у меня так аккуратно не получится.

  5. Бесподобный мастер класс Нина, буквально разжевали и в рот положили, все подробно до мелочей,огромное вам спасибо от нас начинающих плести такую красоту, еще раз спасибо. С уважением Валентина.

  6. Sizden ricam Türkçe alt yazı yazarmısın ,özellikle sizin çalışmalarınızdaki ince işçilikteki detayların hiç birini atlamak istemiyorum, başarılarınızın devamını dilerim

  7. очень красиво получилось… какое расстояние у вас между трубочками…

  8. ochen' horoshee video, spasibo! I shared the video in the Hungarian FB group "Papírfonás" (paper weaving, pletenie iz bumag) i perevodila samye interesnye momenty.

  9. Ниночка! здравствуйте! наконец мы видим новое видео! ура!как всегда безупречно!

  10. Beautiful the weave looks so natural you would never think this was made of paper looks like natural wicker love it 😍 Fantastic and gorgeous ♥️

  11. Огромное спасибо за МК,один из самых лучших, увиденных мною. С уважением.Подписываюсь на канал.

  12. Нарезка по времени:
    0:52 Обзор материалов
    3:19 Расчёт количества стоечек-основ
    5:06 Как работать с влажными стоечками
    6:35 Поднимаем стоечки вверх
    12:43 Плетём стенки подноса верёвочкой
    23:42 Обрезаем стоечки и меняем на новые
    25:48 Загибка Косичка в три трубочки
    41:03 Грунтовка для прочности (лак+вода 1:1)
    43:08 Финишное покрытие акриловым лаком

  13. Здравствуйте, Нина. Очень понравился ваш подносик, объяснение замечательное! Одна проблема: не получилось сделать трубочки пластичными. Всё сделала по вашему объяснению, но после покрытия трубочек смесью воды с лаком они стали твёрдыми и очень плохо сгибаются. В чём может быть ошибка?

  14. Здравствуйте Нина. Спасибо за красивые работы и подробные видео. Пробую сделать такую загибку у себя на подносе и ничего у меня не получается. Трубки переламываются как бы я не старалась их уложить. Трубки валажненные ведут себя тоже плохо ложатся с изломом. Плести заведомо не красивую вещь не хочу ….а качественно не плучается. Понимаю , что здесь могут играть много факторов….и покраска и качество бумаги …я испробовала много способов а аккуратности достигнуть не могу. Так и не могу понять причину . Может разница в покраске трубочек. Я красила краской с резиной а потом покрывала лаком на водной основе разведеным водой. Практически одно и тоже , что и у вас. А качества нет. Бросать плести не хочу , очень нравится это занятие…но и обидно за себя право….

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