#1084 Мастер-класс c Ниной Корзинка из газет Woven basket from newspaper ENGLISH SUBTITLES

#1084 Мастер-класс c Ниной Корзинка из газет Woven basket from newspaper ENGLISH SUBTITLES

Tutorial with Nina
CANDY BASKET FROM NEWSPAPER TUBES Hi, guys! Today we’re going to weave a basket for sweets as a present for my dear sister. We’re going to use light tones of oak stain and decorate it with a ribbon and flowers made in technique of decoupage. Let’s weave it together. Welcome to my tutorial. The materials and equipment used are listed in the description below. The basket is woven from paper tubes made from a newspaper or blank newsprint from a stationery store. Its density has to be as thin as a newspaper. Cut blank edges of the newspaper, because prints can’t be stained. Before cutting, try to make a sample tube from one edge and from another. A newspaper has a specific direction of fibers, so it can only be rolled on one side along the fibers. A4 newsprint has 21 cm width, therefore it can be cut into 7 cm width stripes to get 3 tubes for weaving. It can also be cut in half to get two 10.5 cm stripes for the base tubes. To roll the tubes, we’re using 1.5 mm knitting needle. To make the tube colorless, start rolling from the printed edge. Place it on the corner at an acute angle and roll the tube pretty tight from the very beginning. This is important, because the tube has to be dense for better looking in the weaving. Fix the knitting needle in the corner and roll the tube with both hands. Holding the end of the tube, pull out the knitting needle. If it’s hard to do, then the tube rolled properly. Drip a drop of PVA glue on the corner, roll and hold for a while to attach it. Use wet wipes to clean your hands. The thickness of the tube has to be the same over the entire length. If you are using the water resistant glue, even a few hours is enough to dry it up before staining. If the not water resistant glue was used, 24 hours of drying is required. All the tubes, weaving and base, are rolled by the same method. So roll weaving tubes from newsprint as well as from newspaper. When the tubes dries, start staining. Before painting, we have to decide how mane base tubes are needed. Usually, the distance between them is 1.5 – 2 cm. I’m going to take a minimum, 1.5 cm. Measure the base box perimeter. In my case, it’s 60 cm. Dividing 60 by 1.5 mm, we got 40 base tubes. Let’s stain the tubes. All the tubes, base and weaving, are stained at the same color. I want to get a light oak color, almost the same as my brush handle. To get this color, I’m using the oak stain mixed with water. Before painting, put the plastic sheet on the table, wear gloves, and shake the stain. Pour the water, add a little amount of stain, and paint sample tubes. Stir up well. If the color is too saturated, add water. If the color is very pale, add the stain. After drying, I can see the color, that I like, so the other tubes are stained in this color. Stain the tubes from one side by rolling them. Spread thoroughly. Then stain from the other side in the same way. Use two additional tubes to hold stained tubes for better ventilation and drying. For even coloring, roll them from side to side. Stain all the tubes and left them to dry for 24 hours. To make tubes elastic and prevent sticking together, they are stained by the varnish with water solution and dried by a hair dryer. The solution ratio is 1:2, 1 proportion of varnish and 2 of water. Pour water, add the varnish, and stir up thoroughly. For better stirring, you can use a brush. Varnish with the same method as we used for staining: first from the one side, then from the other. Dry the external surface for one minute using a hair dryer. Use warm air instead of hot, don’t dry up the tubes completely. The tubes have to be dry outside and wet inside. To keep the tubes wet, wrap them into a plastic file leaving the edges outside. The edges have to be dry for better jointing. Leave them like that until the beginning of the weaving. By the way, if you are not going to cover the tube with this solution, you can weave just using wet tubes. In this case, after staining and drying the tubes for a couple hours, just wrap them in the plastic file before beginning. Then the weaving appearance will be less beautiful. Don’t hold the tubes wrapped for more than 24 hours, otherwise they can be spoiled. Let’s weave the bottom. The base tubes are dry, the weaving tubes are wet and ready to be woven. At first, two base tubes are criss-crossed, then the additional ones are evenly added. In the intersection point, press and glue for a more convenient start. Attach and hold for a while to stick together. Non-glued edge of the weaving tube has a small triangle tail, which has to be cut off to make the connection easier. Bend first weaving tube in half, bend around the base tube and start weaving with Straight rope. Press the weaving toward the center. Continue weaving the second row in the same way. Both sides of the tube are ended and have to be extended. The connection point has to be hidden under the other tube. Now, cut the lower tube on about 5 mm from the connection point. Don’t forget that the glued edge of the tube has to be cut, because it’s rough and won’t look nice in the weaving. Cut at an acute angle, narrow it, drip a drop of glue to prevent detacment, and insert next tube with a non-glued edge. Continue on weaving. The connection point is hidden by the next tube and invisible. Do the same with the other tube, cut and hide the connection point. Two round rows are finished. Mark the very first base tube with a rubber band to determine where the round row starts. Insert additional base tubes between the existing ones. I learned this way of inserting from Alyona Bugrova, and want to thank her for this convenient method. Cut the edge of a new base tube and place it in the middle, and bent it around with weaving tubes moving the tail to the back side. Later, it is pulled and hidden inside the weaving. Aline the tube, round from both sides with the weaving tubes, and proceed to the next one. Weave tightly to prevent the gaps. Do the same with the next tube. Insert the tube from the back side and weave around. Next two tubes are inserted in the same method. To better fix new base tubes, weave another round row. It’s done. When you’re using this method, it’s very important to weave around new tubes tightly to fix them properly. This is how it looks from the opposite side. Weave a little more and then you can pull the tubes and hide them. So, weave the other couple rows, I’ve woven one more row, and now I can pull the tubes from back side to hide them inside the weaving. Drip a drop of PVA glue and press. Wipe the excess with wet wipe. When the glue dries, continue weaving. After weaving the 6 round rows, the bottom begin to get shape. To make it look better, It has to be pressed from time to time. After weaving the 7th round row, the additional base tubes will be added. On the 8th row, add 2 base tubes in between the two existing tubes using the same method. Now we have 8 base tubes, but we need 40 of them. Adding 2 on each of 8 intervals makes 24 base tubes in general. Later we’re going to add the other 16 tubes, which give as 40 necessary tubes. Insert the tubes from the back side and weave around them tightly. Do the same in the next interval. Weave the next two rows without separation the paired tubes to fixate them better. Later, we’ll separate the tubes and weave around each of them. After weaving the 3 round rows, the paired tubes are fixated properly. Now we can pull them to hide the edges and make the transition invisible. Press the tubes to make them flat, drip a drops of glue to make the connection stronger. Align and press. While the glue is still wet, make the bottom flat. Press the bottom from the both sides. Make sure that the transition is as invisible as possible. Wait until the glue dries, and continue weaving not separating the paired tubes yet. After weaving the other 2 round rows, measure the bottom to the base box. It’s time to insert the other 16 base tubes. The paired base tubes are still woven together, and new base tubes will be inserted on the sides of the older ones. Therefore, we finally can get 40 base tubes in general. The paired tubes are separated on the next row and the triple ones after the other several round rows, so finally, we suppose to get the equal distance between the base tubes. Now, I show you how to insert the tubes. Enlarge the gap from both sides of the single base tube, flat the edges and insert the tubes inside the weaving to a depth of about 5 mm. Drip a drop of PVA glue for better fixation. Insert all the base tubes in the same way. After attaching of all the tubes, continue weaving a couple rows without separating the triple tubes yet. The paired tubes are properly fixated and could be separated. After weaving one round row, press the triple tubes attachment points. and push weaving toward the center to make it look good. Weave the next round row without separating the tubes. Now, we can finally separate the triple tubes helping with the little scissors. There are about 6-7 round rows left to the edge of the base box. From now on, the base tubes are woven separately and the distance between them is equalized. Separating the triple tubes, draw them aside at a wide angle. From time to time, pull the tubes. After weaving the row, that’s how it looks from the top. To get the right result, do it thoroughly without rushing. The triple tubes have to be drawn aside at a wide angle. This round row has to be woven properly, because if it’s not, it won’t look neat and stand out. Afterwards, the distance between the tubes has to be equalized and the triple tubes will be bent back. Now just weave 6 more round rows until the edge of the base box. From now on, the weaving shouldn’t be difficult. After weaving two more rows, the base tubes are already aligned, so continue to weave at about 4 more rows. When two rows are left, we are elongating the first four base tubes, which are too short. Cut the edges and insert the new tubes. Enlarge the gap above the tube, drip the glue, flat the edge of the next tube, and insert it as deep as possible. Press and let the glue to dry a bit. Do the same with the other three tubes. After weaving the next two rows, the connection points are hidden inside the weaving. I’ve woven till the marked tube, and there are 21 round rows in total. Our bottom is fully completed, the combination of patterns looks kind of cute. There is what the opposite side looks like. It also looks neat. The bottom is the same size with the base box and doesn’t have any protrusions. At the next step, we are going to lift up the base tubes and weave sidewalls. I turned the base box upside down, because it’s flatter on the top, also I have to put something heavy inside. We are wrapping the box in a food film to prevent its staining. My base box is too short and after weaving, it will be difficult to take it off, so I’m going to make a handle from scotch tape. Now we can start to lift up the base tubes and weave the sidewalls. The next 2 round rows are woven without the base box inside, and in the 3rd row we start using it. In the next row, the base tubes are lifted up at an angle of 45 degrees to make the transition smoother. In the second row, the base tubes are lifted up at a right angle. Continue weaving with Straight rope. Weave tightly and push toward the center of the box to make the transition between the bottom and the sidewall invisible. Pull up the tubes from time to time. After weaving one row, the base tubes are still falling down. Just try to hold them at a right angle on the next row and keep them vertical. Make sure that the distance between the tubes is equal. After weaving two rows, you have to get something like this. The base tubes still don’t hold the vertical shape, so I’ll weave the additional row without the base box inside. To keep the tubes upright, place the base box inside and tighten an elastic band around it. You can use a hair dryer to speed up drying, but I just left the basket for 12 hours and now the base tubes have taken upright position. The bottom is flat, the transition is invisible and edge looks nice. Continue weaving clockwise with the base box inside to keep the shape of the basket. Also lie the plastic sheet on the table to protect the bottom from getting dirt. From now on, weave with Reverse Rope. It’s similar to Straight rope, but now the right weaving tube is placed under the left one and then behind the next base tube. You can make a small curve on the weaving tube for better laying. Don’t forget to press regularly. Keep the equal distance between the base tubes. Press it tightly to the base box. When it’s time to extend the tubes, cut them at a distance of about 1,5 cm after the previous base tubes. Narrow the edges, insert next tubes and keep on weaving the next 2 round rows before beginning the decoration. I’ve woven 4 round rows of the sidewall. I count them starting from the final row of the bottom. We’ve woven until the marked tube and now we have to cut both weaving tubes, because it’s time to add the decorative ribbon. We finished right before marked tube. According to the pattern, move the second tube inside the basket, it will be cut and insert later. Place the first tube on in front of marked base tube, then move it inside. Cut the tubes and insert into the weaving. The second tail is inserted from the front side to be unnoticeable. Right here, under this tube. Drip the glue and hold for a while. To decorate the basket, I’m going to insert the satin ribbon into it. Therefore, to keep the space for the ribbon, I prepared the cardboard stripe. It’s one mm wider than the ribbon, because I want to leave a little more space for the ribbon to move freely. Insert the cardboard. Glue the next two tubes above the cardboard: the first one behind the marked base tube, the second one behind the right base tube. From now on, we’re going to weave counter-clockwise, it’s more convenient if you are right handed. Weave with Straight rope instead of Reverse rope, because it’s more convenient. Use the polymer glue for faster connection. Place and hold for about two minutes to attach the tubes. When the glue dries, start weaving. In the second row, the connection points will by covered by the weaving tubes from the inside. Weave around the base box tightly. Make the next 4 round rows using thit method. When they’re done, take out the base box, we don’t need it anymore. The ends of the tubes were hidden in the same way as those that were under the ribbon. Now we are weaving the bending using Straight rope from three tubes. Instead of gluing the tubes behind the base tubes, we’re inserting then into the weaving, because the base tubes will be cut during the weaving and hidden into the bending for better look. Take 3 tubes, cut the edges at an acute angle to make them easy to hide. Expand the gaps near the base tubes, drip a drop of glue, and insert the tube. Bend it to the outside and do the same with the next two tubes. Straight rope from three tubes is woven the same as from two tubes. Place the left tube in front of the next two base tubes and behind the 3rd base tube. But first cut the 3rd base tube at a distance slightly shorter then the width of the tube, and drip a drop of glue on the stump. Lie the first left tube pretty freely accordingly to the volume of the bending. Place it behind the stump, press for a while to fixate it, because the stump is very short, and cut the next base tube. Actually, you can cut all the base tubes. Drip the glue on these stumps, too. Continue weaving. This is how it looks like from the top, the stumps are hidden by weaving tubes. Weave tightly, make the bending neat and straight at once, because it will be hard to do after the glue dries. Extand the tubes with the same way as before, but cut the edges a little further from the stump to hide the connection point properly. In the end of the round row, move the tubes inside and attach with glue. Move the next and the last ones. Place them accurately according to the pattern. Look from the inside where to place the tube and then cut the edges at an acute angle. Glue to the appropriate stump, and do the same with the other tubes. The bending is ready. Go around and correct the bending if necessary. The base tubes were successfully hidden. Prime the basket to make it firm. The solution is the same that we used to cover the tubes in the beginning, but more concentrated, as I pour a little more varnish here. Actually, it’s pretty firm even now, because the tubes were varnished before weaving. Especially carefully cover around the cardboard, because it’s not going to be taken away to hold the upper weaving. Perhaps, I’ll use a hair dryer to speed up drying around the cardboard to take it off and varnish not woven base tubes from inside and outside. The basket dried and became durable. I took away the cardboard and later we’re going to insert the ribbon here. But now I’m going to decorate the bottom and the sidewalls with decoupage technique. Cut some fragments from the napkin and then attach them to the basket. But previously, separate one or two white layers and a printed layer of the napkin from each other. Do this carefully and don’t tear the napkin. It’s thin and going to look good after attaching to the weaving. I’m going to place flowers in the middle of the bottom inside and outside the box, and some of them spread all around the bottom and on the sidewalls. Pour the glue in a vessel, take a small brush, place the flower and smear the glue from the center. Carefully spread the glue toward the edges. Don’t stretch the flower during gluing. I’ve finished decoupage and that’s how the basket looks. The view on the bottom. When the glue dried, we can proceed to the final coating and cover the basket with acrylic varnish to make it even more solid and sparkling. Pour the varnish. We are using a small and large brush. Start covering with a large brush, then spread the varnish with a small brush to remove the excess. Don’t use too much varnish. Spread the varnish immediately. You can prime and varnish twice. If you’re going to do this, dry each coat at least 12 hours before applying the next one. Varnish all the basket from inside and outside, and let it dry for 12 hours. Ten minutes later, you can go around the basket and remove excess glue with a small brush. The acrylic varnish that was used to cover the basket has the matte silk tone that looks great on the surface. But, made in the decoupage technique, fragments look better if they’re glossy. So I’ve covered them with glossy acrylic varnish, and now they’re more noticeable. After complete drying, the basket can be decorated with the ribbon. Before inserting the ribbon, melt both edges with a lighter. Start inserting the ribbon, alternating behind and in front of the base tubes. Left a small, 2mm tail of the ribbon behind the base tube, which will be hidden by the bow at the end. Don’t strain the ribbon rightly, it has to lie free. At the end, insert the edge inside, behind the beginning of the ribbon, tuck the ribbon under the adjacent base tube, and cut at a distance of about 2 mm from the base tube. I’m not going to glue the ribbon in the connection point, because it’s well held, and we have a possibility to change it in the future. The tips of the ribbon are hidden behind the base tube and almost invisible. Now we’re attaching a decorative bow. Cut two ribbon stripes, one is 17 cm long for the bow, and the other is 8 cm for the middle part of the bow. Find the middle of the long stripe, attach the edges using the polymer glue, and later hide the connection with the short ribbon. Wait 2-3 minutes until the glue dries. The middle part was a bit long, so I cut 5 mm out from it. I want it to hold the bow tightly. Now it is glued from the backside. For a better appearance on the front side, drip of drop of glue in the middle. For better connection, let polymer glue dry a couple of minutes before attaching. Our adorable bow is ready to be attached to the base tube with the ribbon connection point behind. Use quite a lot of glue to prevent unsticking. Attach and press. After decorating, the basket is completely finished. It has become so cute and adorable. The ribbon is the perfect decoration for the sidewalls and the bow makes the basket even more beautiful. This is how the bottom looks. It has the unique weaving texture and the decoupage from flowers. The back side of the bottom is also decorated in decoupage technique, the basket is colorful and sparkling. The transition between the bottom and the sidewalls is very smooth. The basket is pretty firm, so you can store fruits, candies and any sweets in it. Also, the basket can be wiped with a wet cloth. I’m sure your friends would love this basket full of sweets. I hope, your basket turned out to be as charming, as mine. If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask them in the comments below. I wish you creative success! Thanks for watching 🙂
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49 thoughts on “#1084 Мастер-класс c Ниной Корзинка из газет Woven basket from newspaper ENGLISH SUBTITLES

  1. Корзинка – это что-то !!!! Красиво, аккуратно! Нина – вы мастерица!

  2. Учусь по вашим мастер-классам,очень нравится,спасибо большое👏

  3. 😍😘👍👌wow beautiful, learning something new everytime from your video. Thank you for sharing. Very well demonstrated.

  4. Нарезка по времени:
    0:45 Материалы для работы
    0:54 Нарезаем полоски и крутим трубочки
    5:17 Покраска трубочек
    7:19 Делаем трубочки для плетения пластичными: лак+вода+фен
    09:29 Плетём круглое дно
    11:17 и 32:08 и 39:40 Наращивание трубочек для плетения
    13:07 и 17:05 и 20:18 Добавляем стоечки-основы
    27:47 Плетём стенки корзинки
    36:34 Плетём верх корзинки-верёвочки из 3-х трубочек
    41:06 Грунтовка
    42:34 Декупаж из салфетки
    45:02 Финишное покрытие акриловым лаком
    46:49 Украшение ленточкой и бантиком

  5. ну вот и пришло моё время учиться плетению,корзинка классная!!!

  6. Ниночка, у Вас такие красивые изделия!!! Я смотрю Вас и Валечку, счастья и удачи вам!!!

  7. Корзиночка просто прелесть. Пытаюсь плести тоже такую, вроде бы получается. Спасибо Вам за МК.

  8. Ниночка! У вас очень красивое и аккуратное плетение !! Спасибо вам !! Хотелось бы чаще видеть ваши МК !! Буду ждать новых работ !!

  9. Очень доступно Нина СПАСИБО! Но у меня не получается, я уморилась Понимаю что не сразу,но увы….

  10. Мне очень нравятся ваши работы! 👏👏👏🌹🌹🌹
    Почерк плетения, кстати, у меня с вами один.
    Чему рада вдвойне 👍
    Спасибо за идеи !
    Успехов Вам !

  11. Сколько мм ваша спица? На видео она кажется толще, чем 1,5 мм.

  12. У меня спица 2 мм. Какой ширины должна быть полоса? Я из газеты плету.

  13. You are a fairy! I'm touched by the delicacy of your work! Sorry for not understanding your language, but I leave my big hug!

  14. Hey,

    We own VT (https://www.facebook.com/junglevt) with over 22 million viewers and we’d love to feature your video on the most suitable Channels that Jungle Creations own (www.junglecreations.com/#ourchannels). We'd link all the credit back to you.

    Let us know if this is OK and feel free to email us at [email protected]


  15. good video. but I don't understand the materials you used.please tell me in English the name of the things.please reply me .please please please

  16. Спасибо вам большое за мастер-класс! Очень доступно и понятно показываете, с вами учиться одно удовольствие

  17. dilinizi bilmiyorum.cubuklara surdugunuz o sivilar ne.ben sadece akrelik boya suruyorum.bayami suruyorsunuz.turkiyede yasiyorum nedir onlar.

  18. Valentina, tudo bem com você? Eu gostaria de perguntar se você não poderia enviar para mim um pouquinho que seja desse seu talento? Quanta perfeição nos seus feitos. Mais uma vez, PARABÉNS.

  19. здравствуйте,Нина, я как-то обработала трубочки смесью воды и лака, правда, феном не сушила, получились очень твёрдые, даже не увлажнялись, а у вас такие пластичные, даэже витков не видно…, спасибо за мастер класс

  20. Ооочень аккуратные, нежные работы. Я в восторге. Спасибо за подробный комментарий во время плетения)

  21. Да , работы потрясающие , не то что у меня. Теперь я поняла , что все упирается в трубочки . Какие накрутишь , то и получиться в конце . Спасибо . А , вы только газету с белыми краями оставляете для трубочек или задействуете еще с текстом?

  22. Вы молодец очень аккуратно все делаете, есть чему поучиться.

  23. Hello from Australia 🇦🇺, my name is Maria, you have an impressive skill and sharing it here in your channel is wonderful. I have looked at some of your basket weaving videos and i find this one is something i can do with help from your tutorial. Your weaving techniques are excellent as shown in the baskets you’ve been done and they all look elegant and very classy. Thank you and I look forward to watching more of your new beautiful craft videos . 🙏👋🏽👋🏽

  24. La felicito sus trabajos son impecables, lástima que no le entienda, quisiera aprender.
    A pesar de no tener el mismo idioma se hace entender.
    Un saludo desde Colombia.

  25. Muito lindo seu trabalho da vontade de fazer. Mas o dificil é entendeu o idioma. Gostaria de pedir se for possivel por escrito em português uma legenda. Gostaria de saber o que passa nos canudo, não da pra saber o que é, desde ja agradeço

  26. Нина, а можно использовать вместо ПВА полимерный клей?

  27. Один из лучших мастер классов! Подписка однозначно! Спасибо!!!!

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