#11 Корзинка весенняя Мастер-класс от А до Я DIY Newspaper Basket Weaving Tutorial ENGLISH SUBTITLES

#11 Корзинка весенняя Мастер-класс от А до Я DIY Newspaper Basket Weaving Tutorial ENGLISH SUBTITLES

Weaving tutorial Newspaper basket
“The spring mood” Hi, guys! The early spring does not please us with warmth and sun, but we want to fill life with bright and rich colors. So today I’m going to weave an oval basket in dark violet and soft pink colors. If you want to weave with me, then welcome to my tutorial. The materials and equipment are listed in the description. Let’s prepare materials for weaving. We use the paper tubes that are rolled from newspaper or newsprint. The wider stripes are used for base tubes, which will be the basis of our basket. The narrower stripes are used for weaving tubes, as they need be softer. Before cutting a newspaper into stripes, keep in mind that it has a directional fiber structure. You can only weave in fiber direction, but not against it. Therefore, cut one test stripe to determine the fiber direction. The stripe should also have a blank edge, because it’s hard to paint over the ink. When you roll a tube with a thin knitting needle, the tube’s diameter may turn out out to be uneven, one edge may be narrower then the other. Therefore, when you cut a stripe, make one side one cm longer then the other side. Start rolling on a wider side. In this case, the thickness will be uniform along all the tube. Roll the tubes using the same method. Place the knitting needle on the edge at an acute angle. The space between the stripe and the needle is about one cm. Fix it on the edge and roll tightly holding with both hands along the entire length. If the knitting needle isn’t long enough, the stripe can be rolled further even without it. Just roll it carefully using both hands. At the end, pull out the knitting needle. That has to be tight to do. Drip a drop of glue on the end. Hold it for a while to prevent unrolling. Remove excess glue with a wet wipe. Our tube is uniform throughout the entire length, and is ready to be used for weaving the basket. If your glue is water resistant, let it dry for a couple of hours. If not, leave it for 24 hours, and then the tubes can be painted. Before weaving, prepare the base bowl and perform the necessary measurements. First we have to find out how mane base tubes we need. To do that, measure the perimeter of the base bowl. My bowl expands from the bottom to the top, so I measure it in the middle. It’s 59 cm. I want the distance between the tubes to be about 1.3 cm. Usually, this distance is 1.5 – 2 cm, but my tubes are thin, and a smaller distance will look better. Let’s count. Perimeter of 59 cm is divided by the distance between the base tubes of 1.3 cm, and 45 base tubes are obtained. On this stage, we have to figure out the exact number of the tubes, because we’re going to use offset Satin weaving. The rapport of the pattern is equal to five. To make a shift I add one more tube and get 46 base tubes. So multiply the rapport of 5 by the number of the patterns of 9. We’ve got 45 base tubes plus an additional 46th. Or I can subtract one tube from 45 and get 44 base tubes. If you use 44 tubes that the pattern will be moved to the right, if 46 – to the left. I”m going to use 46 base tubes. The number of the base tubes are determined, and now it’s time to outline the oval bottom on the paper for easier measurement according to the pattern. Now mark the points in these places. The width is 13 cm. Divide it by 2 and get 6.5. Measure at a distance of 6.5 cm from the left edge. Mark the point here and do the same on the right side. Draw the line between the points. Start to weave from this segment. Now we have to find out how many tubes are needed. The distance between the tubes is 1.3 cm, the length of the segment is 7.5 cm. So, let’s count. We got 6, plus one more tube for the edge, so, in total, we’re going to use 7 tubes in the beginning. I marked the segment according to which the tubes will be placed. If your base bowl made from plastic and light, put something heavy inside and wrap it with the food film to prevent it from painting. Also, make a handle from scotch to make it easier to pull out at the end. The base bowl is ready to be used. Let’s begin painting our tubes. Mix primer, acrylic enamel and colored pastes, violet and red. I’ve made trial solutions, and got these two colors, dark violet and soft pink. I’ve already painted two test tubes. I used the darkest tone of the violet and the lightest tone of the red. I like the combination of these two colors, and think, they’ll look good together. I’m going to paint all the base tubes in pink, and the weaving tubes in both colors. Before painting, wear gloves and put the film on the table. Stir the enamel thoroughly and shake the primer and the colored paste. Mix the primer with the enamel, then add the colored pastes. Pour 150 grams of the primer for the violet color mixture, and 100 grams for the pink one. Then, add 3 teaspoons of the enamel in the first container, and, accordingly, 2 in the second one. Stir it up thoroughly. You can use a brush for better mixing. Now add the colored pastes to get the required colors. Experiment with the amount of the colored pastes, paint test tubes to get the color you need. First add small amount of colored paste, and if the color is too light, add more and more until you get the color you need. I can see it’s too light, so I add more colored paste. If you added too much colored paste, you can dilute the mixture with primer and enamel. Now make the pink mixture. Paint the trial tubes. The colors are right for me. Keep in mind that the wet tubes are slightly darker than after drying. But you should focus on the color of wet tubes, because they become dark like wet after varnishing. Prepare containers for drying the tubes vertically. Paint the tubes rolling them back and forth. First paint on one side, and then on the other side. We start with the base tubes, they are all pink. Let the paint flow down removing the excess with a brush. Place the tubes in a container with glued edges below at some distance from each other and mix them time to time to prevent gluing. The base tubes have to be completely dry, so leave them for 24 hours. The weaving tubes should be slightly wet, so in one hour they can already be used. However, to make the tubes more elastic you can cover them with a special solution, which I’ll show you later. Before changing the color, wipe the film with a wet wipe. Paint the violet tubes using the same method. I was a little mistaken with the amounts of solutions, and made less pink solution, than violet, and I just hope that this will be enough, because I need more pink tubes than violet. So make violet and pink solutions in equal amounts. When purple tubes have dried, you can see uncolored points. This can happen if you use a colored paste. In this case, just paint them again to make the coloring equal. Also, you might see that the glued edges are not painted well, because I used the moisture resistant glue. But don’t worry, we’re going to cut them anyway, because they a rough and won’t look nice in weaving. This is what I’ve got after the second coat, now all uncolored points are covered. If you want your tubes to be evenly colored, make two or three coats of paint. Unfortunately, the pink tubes are also unevenly colored, so I’m going to paint them again. All tubes are ready. I decided not to paint the base tubes again, so they are little lighter than the weaving tubes. But it’s okay, because they won’t be very visible. To make the tubes more elastic, before weaving cover them with varnish and water solution ans dry with a hair dryer to prevent sticking. The ratio of the solution is one to two, one part of varnish and two of water. Pour water, add varnish. Stir up thoroughly. Varnish the tubes evenly. Dry the external side with warm air from a hair dryer. We do this to prevent the tubes from sticking to each other. Although, they have to remain wet inside, so cover them about an hour after painting. If your tubes are completely dried, moisten them pouring hot water inside. To keep the tubes moist, wrap them in a plastic sheet or file, leaving the unglued edges out in a distance of about one cm. The edges have to be dry for easier connection with each other. Don’t store them for long in this condition. Do the same with all the tubes, and we’re ready to begin the weaving. Everything is prepared for the weaving. The base tubes have dried up, the weaving tubes are wet. Earlier we prepared the bottom weaving pattern. According to the pattern, place seven base tubes parallel to each other. Now we have to fixate them in this state. Take 2 pink weaving tubes, glue them together using the polymer glue, which connects the surfaces well and dries quickly. Press the tubes tightly and hold for a while. Move the tubes aside and start with the first one, place it in between two weaving tubes, fixate it, and begin weaving by crossing the tubes. The tubes have to match the points on the paper. Press slightly the connection points. Fixate the last tube on the edge. Also glue the weaving tubes to each other. Press and check that the tubes are placed evenly. Using the glue on the edges, allowed the tubes to state tight enough and not to slip. If your base tubes are loose, drip a drop of PVA glue at each connection point. This weaving is called Straight rope. Continue the weaving using this method. It’s very important to keep the distance between the base tubes. Now I’m going to make the marking on the pattern. We have to count how many tubes are required in these four sectors. We’re going to gradually add the tubes here. In general, we have 46 base tubes. In the middle we have 7 plus 7 tubes, it give us 14. Subtract 14 from 46 and get 32. Divide 32 by 4 sectors and get 8. It means, we have to add 8 tubes in each sector. Now we’re done with math and can begin weaving. Adjust the weaving in the middle, connect two tubes to each other. The glued edge is inserted into the not glued. The not glued edge is uneven, so I cut it off. The glued edge is rough, so I also cut it at an acute angle and narrow. Drip a drop of PVA glue on the unglued edge and insert the tube. Bend the tube in half and start weaving from the first base tube. I’ll show you, how to weave Straight rope. Place the upper tube under the next base tube. Firmly press the rows against each other. Bend slightly the next upper tube in the connection point and place it under the third base tube. Continue weaving further in the same way. Press the weaving from the sides and from above. At the end of the row weave around two center tubes and continue on the next side. I’ve reached the beginning. To know where we started, mark the first base tube with an elastic band. While the weaving is still wet, press and correct it, especially around the edges. The tubes are finished and now the time to lengthen them. We’re going to hide the connection points between two tubes. Cut the lower tube at an acute angle near the nearest base tube. Narrow it and insert the next tube. Similarly extend the second tube. I’ve woven the half of second round row, and it’s time to add the base tubes to the corner. Cross the tubes and insert the additional base tube. Later I’ll show you how to pull it up. Fixate the tube well to prevent it from falling out. These two tubes are too thin, so in the next row we’re going to insert the base tubes instead. Similarly insert the base tube in the next corner. Repeat inserting the base tubes in the third and forth corners. Measure according to the pattern to make sure it fits. Weave the next couple rows without adding. Later we’ll add more base tubes to the corners. After the third rows, cut the edges, drip a drop of glue and pull the tubes to hide them inside the weaving. In the forth row, I’m going to add more base tubes to the corners and change two initial tubes to the base tubes. Cut the tubes at the base, expand the gap above, and insert 2 base tubes. Also enlarge the gaps over the two additional base tubes and insert one base tube into each space. In this row, double tubes are woven together, but they will be divided and woven separately in the next row. Do the same in the next two corners. In the 5th row, separate the tubes and weave around one after the other. This is what we have so far. Weave pretty tightly on the corners for better looking. Weave the 6th row without adding the tubes. Measure by the pattern to make sure the tubes are properly laid. We’ve already added 6 base tubes on each the turn of the weaving. Now we’re going to add one more tube to each corner tube to get 12. In general, there have to be 16, 8 plus 8. So we’ll add 4 more tubes later. Add the tubes using the same method as before, widen the gap above the tube and insert another tube. In the 7th row, double tubes will be woven together. I decided to weave them together in the 8th row, too. They’ll be separated in the 9th row. As you can see, I separated double tubes in the 9th row. They are not yet parallel to each other, but I’m going to work on this in 10th and 11th rows. The 9th row is quite hard, because 6 base tubes were added, so weave it carefully and neatly, don’t rush. As you can see, in the 11th row, the distance between the tubes was leveled. Now, when there are 4 rows left, we have to add 4 more base tubes on each side. It doesn’t really matter where you add them. I’m going to add them somewhere here and there. In the 12th row, double tubes are woven together, and will be separated in the 13th row. So, after the 13th row, all the base tubes are added and separated. We have only one or two rows left. Weave them leveling the distance between the base tubes. There is the bottom I’ve got after 15th row. The shape is the same as the pattern, and now we just need to hide the tubes into the weaving. I’m placing the base box and see that the bottoms are almost the same. There is a small protrusion of 2 mm, but this is not a problem. I think that the bottom is perfect. When you weave an oval bottom, always check the length and the wide in each step of the weaving. You have to press the tubes more or less strongly to keep the perfect shape. Cut the tubes at an acute angle and lead them to the back side, which also looks very nice and neat. Insert the edges inside the weaving. Insert one tube into the first base tube, the other into the nearest one. At the next step, we’re going to lift up the base tubes and weave the sidewalls. We should move the left tubes under the right, and lift them up. To prevent breakage in the base of the tubes, we’re going to apply varnish and water solution there. It’s the same solution we covered the tubes before weaving. Apply the solution at a distance not exceeding 2 cm from the bottom. Before lifting, slightly bend the tubes at the edges with a knitting needle. Reserve the place for the last tube with a temporary tube. Start bending the tubes and lifting them up, pressing tightly against the bottom. Continue in the same way. This is how the bottom looks from the back side. I think from this side you can lift the tubes more comfortably and tightly to make the transition beautiful. Please take a look how I’m doing this. At the end of the row, remove the temporary tube and insert the last tube instead. This is what we got. To make the tubes more vertical, go around and push the tubes to the opposite direction. We’ll work on this during weaving. Before weaving, we have to elongate the short tubes. Cut them at a distance of 5 mm from the bottom. Now all the tubes are long. I learned that it’s quite difficult to lengthen the tubes at the base, near the bottom. In’s very inconvenient, especially when working with thin tubes. Therefore, I recommend that you extend the first seven tubes at the beginning of the weaving by connecting two tubes one to the other. It would have been much easier to do and now we shouldn’t have to lengthen them. So, let’s begin the weaving, but first we have to put the base box inside. Start to weave from the narrow side to make the connection point less noticeable. During the weaving, we have to make the base tubes become vertical. We’re going to weave this Straight rope from three tubes. Glue the three tubes behind the three base tubes with polymer glue. Start to weave from the left to the right. Place the left tube in front of the two base tubes and behind the third. Place the first tube freely to get a volume. Bend slightly at the connection point and place behind the base tube. Continue weaving leveling the tubes. Always take the left tube and lead it under the 3rd base tube on the right. Such a weaving reminds a pigtail along with the first row, in which we lifted the tubes, and looks good below. As I said before, the base tubes are slightly lighter than the weaving tubes. We’ll paint these base tubes again later to make the same color on the pigtail. Weave one round row this way. Elongating the tubes, keep in mind that the connection point has to be between the base tubes. To make this, we have to cut the edges near the next base tube. We’ve reached the first tube and now I’ll show you how finish the row so that it looks good. We have to change the order and instead of the left tube start with the right. Place it on top of the two tubes and behind the third. Temporary pull out the base box and press the weaving tightly. Do the same with the middle tube. The tube, which was supposed to be the first, is now the last. Cut the edges according to the pattern and glue them to the weaving from the inside. It’s very important to make this ending nice and neat. We got a very beautiful pigtail at the bottom of the basket. Now we’re going to continue with Calico weaving from the violet tubes, which have to be wet. Weave with a single tube. Expand the gap, apply glue, insert the tube behind the base tube and put it out. Begin weaving from left to right with the pattern, which rapport – 5 tube. So place the tube in front of three base tubes, and behind two. Continue weaving holding the base tubes vertically. Press it to the base box and to the pigtail below. When the tube ends, extend it hiding the connection point behind the base tube to make it invisible from the front. Cut off the edge and insert the next tube as we’ve done before. At the end of the row, we have one unused tube, so weave the next row with the offset. This weaving is simple, just press the tubes against each other and weave pretty tightly. At the next row, we’re going to make another tube offset. Count the tubes carefully, in front of two tubes, behind of three, and do not break the weaving pattern. After the fifth row we can see the pattern very well. If you want your weaving to look beautiful, It’s important to cut off glued edges, because they aren’t rough and not painted enough. Also keep holding the very first tube marked with something to know how many rows were woven. Now I’m starting the 6th row. Keep on weaving to the top. I’ve finished weaving with the violet tubes and got 26 rows. The end of the row should be exactly where we started. Now I’m going to cut the tube at a distance of 5 mm and insert it inside the weaving behind the marked tube. The next step is to weave the pigtail in pink color on top exactly the same as it was woven at the base. This is a combination of Reverse rope with three tubes and Straight rope. Start to weave with Reverse rope with three tubes. Glue them behind the three base tubes, the left tube behind the marked tube. Lead the left tube under the two tubes and behind the third base tube. Weave this row not so tight. When you weave Reverse rope, the connection point has to be hidden under the two tubes. Therefore slightly bend the tube in front of the next free base tube, and cut it in acute angle. When we insert the next tube, the connection point will be right under the tubes. Now we’re going to finish the Reverse rope and replace it with Straight rope. Lead the left tube behind the marked tube and toward yourself. Insert the next tube in between two base tubes, and also lead it outside. Insert the last tube in between two base tubes and under two weaving tubes. All three tubes are ready for weaving. Correct the tubes according to the pattern. From the inside, these three tubes hide the connection points of the previous tubes. The next row are woven with Straight rope by three tubes, as we already wove before. Also this row is going to be the top of the basket instead of bending. We’re going to cut off the base tubes and hide the edges under the last row. You can cut off all the tubes right away. During the weaving, drip glue on the cut edges to fixate the weaving tubes and don’t let them slip away. First glue our three weaving tubes behind the base tubes. Begin weaving loosely from the left tube. Lead it behind the cut base tube, fixate, and hold for a while. The second tube is woven pretty tightly Press the tubes to avoid slipping away. Form the top right away, because it’s glued, and later it will be impossible to correct it. This is how it looks from above. Continue weaving until the end of the row. At the end of the row, place the tubes neatly and nicely, then cut the edges and glue them inside according to the pattern. Don’t forget to press and adjust the tubes during weaving. Make sure that the base tubes are hidden by the last row. Before priming, paint the top of the basket again in pink. I also painted again the pigtail at the bottom of the basket to cover the lighter tubes and cracks after lifting the tubes. When you mix primer and colored paste at the beginning, make a ratio of 1:1 – more primer makes the tubes too rough. You can also paint again the bottom if there are any unpainted spots. Now cover the basket with varnish and water solution in a ratio of 1:1. It makes the basket durable. Allow the basket to dry for 12 hours, then varnish to make it glossy and beautiful. Smear well from all the sides including the inside and the bottom. When the basket is completely smeared, I slightly dried it with a hair dryer and put the base box inside to keep the shape after drying. In this case, the basket will look beautiful. When the basket is completely dry, it can be varnished. The basket is very bright, so the glossy varnish will be appropriate. Pour varnish into any container. We’re going to use large and small brushes. Apply a thin coat of the varnish. Ten minutes later, remove excess varnish. Now I want to decorate the basket. Our basket is very bright, so we have to choose the decoration carefully and don’t overdo it, a little accent that don’t spoil the basket. I’m thinking of something like a little brooch in the shape of a flower with petals. It should be airy and not spoil the basket’s texture. I want to place the button in the middle. Actually, there is no need to decorate such a basket, because it’s already beautiful. But I’m just in the mood to make a flower. I’m going to cut the tubes into 5.5 cm pieces, bend them with a pen, and attach with polymer glue. I’m going to use the soft pink weaving tubes. Cut the tube into the pieces using a ruler for measurement. The pieces should have the same length to make equal petals. Bend them in half using a round pen. Glue the edges and let them dry on the pen to keep the shape. Use clothespins to hold the edges, and allow the glue to dry for a while. When the petals are dried, they can be glued to the button. I can see that ten petals fit on the button. Now I’m going to drip glue on each petal and evenly attach them to the button. For a beautiful appearance, don’t allow the glue to go out. Arrange the petals symmetrically. All the petals are attached and we have such a pretty flower. Now glue a round piece of cardboard to the back side. It shouldn’t be more than the button. Let the flower dry for about 5 minutes and cover with the gloss acrylic varnish that we used for the basket. Now we only have to attach the flower to the basket. Pour plenty glue so that the flower doesn’t fall off. After a minute, press it tightly to the basket. I got such a beautiful basket. The combination of bright violet and soft pink colors is perfect. The flower decorates the front of the basket beautifully. Calico weaving looks great both from the outside and from the inside. The adorable oval bottom also looks nice from the inside from the inside and from the outside. The pigtail looks interesting on the top and bottom of the basket. Guys, please, write comments if you liked the basket and what you thought was interesting in it. I hope that your basket has also turned out pretty and adorable. I wish you a good spring mood! Thanks for watching 🙂
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90 thoughts on “#11 Корзинка весенняя Мастер-класс от А до Я DIY Newspaper Basket Weaving Tutorial ENGLISH SUBTITLES


  2. Мне очень понравилось. Спасибо за подробный МК.

  3. Нарезка по времени:
    0:51 Материалы для работы
    0:57 Нарезаем полоски и крутим трубочки из тонкой спицы 0,8 мм
    3:55 Готовим основу и считаем количество стоечек
    8:06 Покраска трубочек сиреневым и красным колерами
    15:22 Делаем трубочки для плетения пластичными: лак+вода+фен 1:2
    17:25 Плетём овальное дно
    21:22 и 24:00 и 38:50 Наращивание трубочек для плетения
    33:07 Плетём стенки корзинки
    35:50 Добавляем стоечки-основы
    37:14 Прямая верёвочка из 3-х трубочек
    40:24 Ситцевое плетение 3 за 2
    44:58 Обратная верёвочка из 3-х трубочек
    47:19 Обрезаем стоечки сверху, плетём верх корзинки – верёвочка из 3-х трубочек
    51:05 Грунтуем для прочности смесью лак+вода 1:1
    52:05 Финишное покрытие акриловым лаком для блеска
    52:52 Украшение цветком из трубочек

  4. Нина замечательный МК!!! Корзиночка получилась красивая, весенняя!!! Сочетание цвета очень понравилось, ну и конечно же аккуратность в исполнении !!!

  5. А всегда вы трубочки увложняете соотношение лака и воды ? Не становяться они жёще?

  6. Огромное спасибо за такой подробный МК… Многие нюансы взяла на заметку… Корзинка получилась изумительная….!!!

  7. Очень весёлая получилась корзинка, спасибо за подробнейший мк.🙏🙏🙏

  8. вот нравится плести,но..эта арифметика отбивает всё желание. хотя понимаю,что без этого ни как((

  9. Querida Nina, sería posible hacer una traducción al español sobre lo que productos que utilizas para pintar los palitos de papel? Quizás encuentre en Perú… un abrazo

  10. Нина, спасибо! Откройте секрет, почему у Вас не разворачиваются трубочки, когда Вы их режете на части? Как же мне далеко до такой аккуратности. Просто невероятно.

  11. Огромное спасибо)))))) очень полезное МК!!!! очень многое для себя узнала)))

  12. Нина, Вы молодец! Все ясно и понятно. Вы можете снять мк по плетению большой корзины? Заранее благодарю за любой ответ.

  13. Здравствуйте, супер 👍, скажите пожалуйста а стояк чёт?на такой узор

  14. Очень нравятся Ваши МК. Приятно смотреть и радует глаз. Какая Вы затейница. Давно не попадала на Ваш канал.

  15. Первый ТОЛКОВЫЙ мк, показано подробно и съёмка очень удачная! Спасибо большое за такой труд! Здоровья и удачи!

  16. Мастер-класс мне показался немного занудный, но результат того стоил. Корзинка получилась красивая, идеально выполненная. Спасибо. Я бы так не смогла

  17. Огромное вам спасибо за МК, все понятно.Корзинка шикарная.

  18. Можете подсказать, если акрилового лака срок годности истек,что нибудь можно сделать?Попробовала прокрасить,а там мелкие крупиночки и при высыхании они сыпятся.Может с чем то можно развести ?

  19. Добрый день дорогие мастерицы!Хочу поделиться своим опытом, произошло спонтанно, после окрашивания яиц пищевой краской решила попробовать покрасить этим раствором трубочки,добавила в краску три чайные ложки лака.Получились такие красивые насыщенные цвета! И при работе они совсем не красят руки

  20. เป็นงานที่หาดูได้ไม่ง่ายขอบคุณมากคะ

  21. Класс! Класс! И ещё раз Класс!!! Спасибо за подробность!

  22. Нина, простите за любопытство… Почему у Вас на канале нет видео шикарнейшего подноса ? У Валентины Америка он есть, а у Вас нет. Не порядок!!!!!! )))

  23. Отличная работа! Оригинальная и изящная корзинка! Огромное спасибо за МК!

  24. Нина нет слов браво браво браво👍👍👍👍👍👏👏👏👏👏

  25. Очень хорошо объяснили, как плести такое очарование! Спасибо, вдохновили на плетение.

  26. Здравствуйте,а Вы клей ПВА в ведерках используете для грунтовки? И ещё хочу спросить,я плету изделия из трубочек не крашенных,можно ли их также пропитать ,чтоб они были эластичными. И в последующем их можно будет красить акриловой краской +коллер? Заранее спасибо.

  27. Вы такая умница все понятно объясняите и очень красивые корзинки .

  28. Знаю, что фанатки могут накинуться на меня, аки коршуны, но все-таки напишу, что при изумительной аккуратности работы все корзиночки, на мой взгляд, немного аляповаты. В них, в каждой, чуть-чуть лишнего "украшательств". Если в корзиночку вплетена лента с бантиком, так на нее еще и декупаж зачем-то нанесен. Если корзинка сплетена из ярких разноцветных трубочек, она и так очень пестрая, так нет – еще и цветочками украшена… Идеален в этом смысле, пожалуй, только кофейный поднос. Вот он, как мне кажется, вообще, образец стиля и чувства меры. ИМХО.

  29. Смотрела, открыв рот. Интересный и понятный мастер-класс. Спасибо 🙂 Успехов вам!

  30. Очень очаровательная корзинка. а может можно газеты заворачивать не половинки а целые двойные страницы подскажите не пробовали(тогда и трубочки в два раза длинней получатся). а донышко получается как стопа пинеток.

  31. добрый день, не подскажете, как рассчитать кол-во стоек для смещения рисунка, например, у вас раппорт узора состоит из 5 трубочек (3 перед, 2 за), т.е тут кол-во трубочек должно быть кратное 5-ти и еще +1 трубочка – правильно да?

  32. еще мне очень понравилось, как вы объясняете расчет неободимого кол-ва трубочек овального дна, я как бы уже не начинающий плетельщик, но тем не менее столько мастер-классов пересмотрела по данной теме – так и не смогла понять принцип, плела овальные днища на авось, а тут у вас все доходчиво и просто, спасибо большое!!!)))

  33. Подскажите чем обработать трубочки, чтобы были как у вас еластичные ?

  34. Мне очень понравился ваш урок,очень хочу научиться,закупить всё по вашему списку

  35. Корзинка просто супер! Хочется научиться плести такие прекрасные корзинки! Все очень понятно объясняете. Спасибо!

  36. Нина, здравствуйте! Не могу понять: у вас есть второй сайт? Valentina Amerika? Или вас копируют?

  37. Нина,скучаем по Валентине-Америке.Где она сейчас,просто взяла и исчезла?

  38. Что ни изделие, то – шедевр!
    Спасибо Вам за Ваше творчество! 💐

  39. Ниночка! Поздравляем Вас с Днём 8 марта! Желаем здоровья,счастья,любви,исполнения всех желаний,радостного,весеннего настроения!У Вас великолепная,изумительная,бесподобная семья и мы восхищаемся Вами!

  40. Добрый день.
    Каждый раз удивляюсь тому, насколько у Вас всё аккуратно получается! Такого мастерства мне не достигнуть во век!(((

  41. Моё плетение получается очень грубым. ((( Может дело в том, что трубочки я кручу на спицу 2 мм (бумага газетная, 7 см ширина полосы, 35 см длина полосы). Или всё-таки дело в неправильной подготовке их к началу плетения? Подскажите, пожалуйста, в чём моя ошибка?

  42. Vejo em alguns vídeos,que se aplica algum líquido para amaciar os canudos para que se dobrem sem rachaduras,que líquido é esse, que deixam mais macios?

  43. Why you multiply 5 to 9 how have explain 5 but not 9 I didn't understand why you multiply 5 to 9 please tell me

  44. It is compulsory that the pattern is repeated 9 time whatever the of basket of which we are using for weaving

  45. Hola,quiero hacer un cesto con este punto,pero mas pequeño,redondo,con menos tubitos,y no se cuantos tubitos ponerle,te agradecería si pudieras ayudarme ,gracias💋🇵🇪

  46. Привет всем .Всего вам хорошего . Какие вы молодцы.Просто класс.

  47. Waouhh ! such a beautiful basket !! I've learned so much watching the entire video. Now I know the products I have to use to taint and varnish the tubes. I won't make the first mistakes. Thanks a lot for sharing and specially for all the detailed explanations. Keep on doing your amazing works 🙂

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